February 19, 2014

Queenstown - Global Adventure Capital

We spent a night in Haast saying farewell to the West Coast and the Southern Alps. The highway then snaked along the Haast River and over the 563m Haast Pass. We had lunch by the river.


It was a beautiful drive through part of the Fjordland.


We got held up by a house... so funny!


Queenstown is surrounded by the indigo heights of the Remarkables and framed by Lake Wakatipu.


A Little History
The town had a Whistler village feel to it, and was full of restaurants, bars and outdoor gear shops. In 1863 it became a mining town with streets and permanent building and it was declared 'fit for a queen' by the NZ government, thus the name. It is the playground for all kinds of adventure sports, so the streets and bars are full of young people. Very lively.

Ben Lomond Summit
The trail started very close to the campground and at the foot of the Skyride. As we started to climb we felt like we were doing the Grind, and the climbing continued for hours up above the tree line,


towards the Ben Lomond Summit at 1,763m covered in the clouds.


It started drizzling as we hit the Saddle, but the view was beautiful anyhow.


As the Summit was clouded in Dorte didn't expect the view to better than half way up from the Saddle, and to save her knee for another hike, she waited for Andy enjoying the view of Queenstown. Andy made it to the Summit, of course!


The hike took us about six hours in total, and we had a well-deserved beer afterwards.


Every time we passed the Fergburger there was a lineup out the door, so we had to try their burger, and it was yummy.


This sequoia tree was planted in 1874, and is 31m high - impressive.


We loved Queenstown for its village feel.



February 16, 2014

Franz Josef Glacier - A 'Slide' Show

A Little History
The early Maori knew Franz Josef as Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere (Tears of the Avalanche Girl). Legend tells of a girl whose lover fell from the local peaks, and her flood of tears freezing into the glacier. The glacier was first explored by Europeans in 1865. This glacier is descending rapidly, about 1m per day due to ample rain. A plane that crashed into the glacier 3.5km from the terminal face, made it down to the bottom 6,5 years later - a rate of 1.5m per day! If the present global warming continues, it is expected that the glacier will have disappeared in 40 years.


Due to the danger of the fast descentof the glacier, you cannot walk near it though there are several glacier valley walks in the area. So the only way to get a glacier walk experience is to book a tour and take a five minute helicopter ride.


We were very excited, and managed to get the front seats in the helicopter.


Notice how big the glacier is and how small the people are in this video of the landing.


We only slid a little going from the helicopter to the waiting area, where we put crampons on the boots, and off we went exploring the glacier.






The guide, Mark from Toronto, hacked steps along the way to make it easier for us.



After about 3 amazing hours on the glacier, it was time to fly back.


Nowhere else at this latitude do glaciers come so close to the ocean.


We went from a cold glacier to glacier hot pools relaxing in the 36C, 38C and 40C water.


What a day!




February 15, 2014

The Southern Alps

On the boat ride up the Abel Tasman coast we chatted with a woman who had been in the tourism industry in New Zealand for 30 years. She recommended that we stayed at the Okarito Campground as it was a beautiful location on the beach, and 16km off the beaten path, so few people bothered go there. And she was right! Wonderful to have the Southern Alps as a backdrop!


A Little Geography
The Southern Alps extend along much of the length of the South Island, and run 450km from north to south. Mt. Cook is the higher point at 3,754 metres (12,316 ft). There are 16 other peaks over 3,000 metres (9,800 ft) in height. The mountains are cut through with glacial valleys and lakes. A beautiful area.

A Little Biology
New Zealand has no large predatory animals, but do beware of the black sand flies. These are nastily little bastards predominantly located on the west coast of the South Island, and their bite hurts for days and leave wedges. Only the female sand flies bite!

We drove to Franz Josef to book the heli hike, and the very helpful Department of Conservation (DOC) representative recommended that we took a bottle of wine, our head lamps, and hiked the 4.2km up to the Okarito Trig to see the sunset over the Southern Alps - what a great idea!


The view of the lagoon and the campground.



The following day we did the 9.8km Three Mile Lagoon via Costal Route Walk, also recommended by the DOC rep. She even gave us the tidal times as the coastal part of the walk can only be done two hours on each side of low tide. The first half of the walk was through the lush native forest.


Then we reached Three Mile Lagoon.


Took a break taking in the stunning views.


Dorte won the Inukshuk building competition.....


The walk back to the campground was fun, as we sometimes had to run from the waves to avoid getting wet feet - it wasn't quite low tide yet! Another wonderful walk!




Thanks to local recommendations, we had two wonderful days here full of experiences we would otherwise never had had! It pays to listen and act!



February 14, 2014

The Rugged West Coast

We left Abel Tasman behind and drove south west to the West Coast. Hemmed in by the wild Tasman Sea and the Southern Alps, the West coast is like no where else in New Zealand. Only about 32,000 people reside in this area being 1% of NZ's population scattered amid almost 9% of the country. It definitely has a end-of-the-road feel.


WESTPORT
We reached the ocean in Westport, and had a relaxing day recovering from the Abel hike. We went to Cape Foulwind and saw a few seals.


Have to keep an eye on the gas in this area.....


PANCAKE ROCKS
We followed the South Highway 6 along the surf-pounded coastline to Punakaiki and stopped to see the Pancake Rocks. 


Nature's pancake receipe:


The world's first lazy boy chair, about 70 million years old, making Andy a living fossil!


We are far away from home....


We stopped for lunch at the beach, and was met by a couple of very curious weka birds. The flightless bird is considered an endangered species in New Zealand, but somewhat plentiful in this region.


HOKITIKA
'Hoki' looked like a Wild West town with its wide and fairly quiet streets. 


After 3,5 weeks in the Spaceship, we longed to have a little more space, a good bed  and some privacy - always sharing washroom and kitchen facilities with other people is tiring - so we checked into a motel. The only room available had had a fire in the oven, so it smelled a little of oven cleaner, but that got solved by opening all the windows and doors, and cooking a nice juicy steak!

GOLD
New Zealand's largest gold nugget, the 2,772kg 'Honourable Roddy' was found in Ross in 1907, and created quite a stir in this area.

HARI HARI
Hari Hari made headlines in 1931 when the Australian aviator Guy Menzies completed the first solo trans-Tasman flight from Sydney. The flight took 11 hours, and he crash-landed his plane at the souther end of town. 


perfect spot for lunch.






February 12, 2014

Abel Tasman Costal Track

It was a beautiful 3.5 hour boat ride from Wellington on the North Island to Picton on the South Island.


We are definitely getting closer to Antarctica, but we didn't see any penguins!


Most of the roads are two lane roads, and windy, so it takes a while to get from A to B, so we have learned to go by the suggested travel times and not kilometres. We stopped for lunch at a beautiful lake.


A Little History
We stayed in Marahau, a tiny village with 200 inhabitants! As it is the main gateway to the Abel Tasman National Park. Abel Tasman was a Dutch seafarer, and the first known European to reach the Australian island now called Tasmania, as well as New Zealand.

We were taking a boat up the coast and then hike the 24km back to Marahau. The Abel Tasman area has crazy tides; up to 6m difference between low and high tide, so we entered the boat on land, and got transported into the ocean by a tractor. 


Quite funny to sit in a boat with the life jacket on driving on the road! We saw Split Appel Rock.


It was a beautiful ride up the coast.


We got dropped of at Bark Bay, and headed south along the track.


Most of the hike was in the trees but there was some beautiful view points along the way.




We took a 'small' detour of 3km to have a swim and lunch at the secluded Watering Cove.


It was the easiest 28km we had ever done, but we were tired of walking at the end of the day. We just made it before the end of Happy Hour at the bar. What a relief!