June 4, 2014

The World Trip - A Quick Recap


SWITZERLAND-Zurich-Meiringen-Swartzwaldalp-Grindelwald-Murren-Geneva-FRANCE-Toulouse-Vieussan-Montpellier-Cannes-ITALY-San Remo-Priocca-Florence-Naples-Amalfi-Pompei-Rome-JORDAN-Amman-Madaba-Dana-Petra-Wadi Rum-Aqaba-NEPAL-Kathmandu-Pokhara-Ulleri-Ghorepani-Ghandruk-Tadapani-Chitwan-THAILAND-Bangkok-Phuket-VIETNAM-Hanoi-Sa Pa-Halong Bay-Phong Nha-Hue-Hoi An-Mui Ne-HoChi Minh City-Mekong Delta-NEW ZEALAND-Auckland-Whangarei-Hahei-Rotorua-Taupo-Whakapapa-Whanganui-Paraparaumu-Wellington-Motueka-Westport-Hokitita-Okarito-Queenstown-Glenorchy-Dunedin-Moeraki-Christchurch-Kaikura-Spring Creek-Punga Cove-Portage Bay-Picton-Tauranga-Auckland.

June 1, 2014

Don't Cry Because It's Over, Smile Because It Happened!


..... those were the words of consolation from my friend, Berit, when I expressed sadness about our great adventure coming to and end. I am getting there! 

Back to the future
When we flew home from New Zealand, I felt like I was leaving the movie theater in the middle of a wonderful movie not knowing how it would end! We arrived home on March 4, but I still feel a bit lost and that life is surreal. Honestly, I didn't want to come home; I have none of my immediate family in Canada, and I had to start finding work, which was a bit scary. 

Strangers had been living in our home, and it felt like I had lived here in a previous life. It was like moving back in again; putting the clothes back in the closet and retrieving things from storage. Feeling rings on the fingers again just underlined the feeling of strangeness. Furthermore, our stuff is overwhelming; the contrast between what we have been happily used to living with for eight months and what we own is shocking! I have so much clothes to choose from......
Being on top of the world has a wonderful way of making me feel more grounded!
I felt a certain restlessness having been addicted  to constant stimulation. My brain is left with twiddling its cerebral thumbs, unsure what to do with the excess hours. Emotionally, I was in no hurry to start working, I needed to adjust as well as time to find my center again.


"There are only two ways to live your life: One is as though nothing is a miracle.  
The other is as though everything is a miracle.”
Albert Einstein

Travel Is Transformational!
It taught me about the world, how to navigate unknown situations, and learn to go with the flow. It made me a better me. No one ever comes back home and said “Wow! Travelling sucks.” People come back from trips with a greater appreciation for life for a reason. Once you travel and experience other cultures, your perception of the world changes. It also taught me about the commonality people around the world share. We are not so different after all.

“I am not the same having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world.” 
 Mary Anne Radmacher

Why do I find myself looking quizzically at everything to try to figure out what is different? Everything feels different while nothing has really changed. Everyone looks exactly the same - I feel like a totally different person. But it is difficult to explain what that 'felling different' is! I know that the journey have made a difference to us, to the way we feel about ourselves, each other and the world. Now I feel an obligation to do something with it - to make it more than simply an extended holiday.

The questions most people have asked us is the traditional travel story questions: What did you like the most? What were your highlights? Those are difficult questions to answer, believe it or not, as every place and country had something special to offer.The real travel story is the internal journey! Emotions, changes that makes the experience special. The single best thing was the total absence of responsibility. Feeling of freedom. Self-indulgent time. It has been an existential detox!

"People don’t take trips . . . trips take people."
John Steinbeck

Andy:
Well, it's been just over two months back, and I still feel like an outsider looking in. I think part of it is that I am substitute teaching and don't have my job back till September. It is really funny when people at work say 'you haven't changed at all"! Inside there has been a deep change in me. I see the world differently.  I am thinking that someday in the future I might want to combine my love of travel with working.

As per usual, what I do and have right now makes me very comfortable. Do I want to take the risk? This is something I have to decide in the next year or two. I don't want to be sitting in my rocking chair someday wishing I had done something!


"The only courage you ever need is the courage to live the life you want."
Oprah Winfrey

As mentioned, the most common question we were asked when we came back was, "What was your favorite place?".  At first, we tried to answer this question, but we quickly realized that over such a long trip there is no defining moment. There were maybe 15-20 wows that just don't compete with one another. Walking 4 km largely by ourselves in a cave in Vietnam is totally different than walking through a mountainous active volcanic area in New Zealand.

So where to go from here...
Since I have returned to Vancouver, I have routinely had the best sleeps in the last 15 years. I am formulating a plan to try to reduce my stress when I return to full time teaching next year. This includes getting to work earlier, and not marking tests when I am tired. No school work after 8 pm. I also hope to get better prepared, instead of following my patented organized chaos system! I can find anything in a pile of papers but not sure if that is something to be proud of!!

As I near the end of my teaching career, I am looking forward to doing some mentoring next year. Great to have the opportunity to pass on some of my knowledge and expertise. 
I have also re-started the Outdoor Club next year at school. Great to pass on my love of nature to the younger generation. Hopefully my cranky, ageing body will cooperate!

Finally, travel has become a big part of my life again. It is a lot easier to do once your children are older. In September, we will start saving for the next one. I would love to travel for two years straight! Easier said then done!! This is only one chapter in a long book!


"It is never too late, to be what you might have been."
George Eliot

If You Don't Go, You Won't Have A Story

Stop thinking you are not ready. Nobody ever feels 100% ready when an opportunity arises. Most great opportunities in life force us to grow beyond our comfort zone, which means we won't feel totally comfortable at first.

Age is just a number. There are all ranges of ages traveling all over and around the world. We saw several people older than us bicycling in the Mekong Delta, climbing up Poon Hill to see the sunrise, and there were all types carrying just backpacks through airports and bus/train stations. It’s a cliche, but you’re not getting any younger, so just go for it. You don’t have to plan to go all the way around the world in one trip either. Start your adventure small and let it grow from there. 

Don't wait too long - tomorrow never comes. Too often we try to wait for the perfect time to travel, that time when all the stars align, but that time never comes. 

Time goes by so fast when travelling, so be sure to stop once in a while and marvel at the moments you create.

You will never have enough money and there will always be someones wedding, birthday, etc. etc. Don't wait. When you want to go, just go. 

"He who is outside his door has the hardest part of his journey behind him." 
Dutch proverb

Those are words to live by..... So stop dreaming, and start packing!

Pssst! We are off to Turkey early June for Stephanie and Thomas' wedding, and it is SO exciting.Stay tuned!








April 1, 2014

Too Much Stuff Syndrome!


He who would travel happily must travel light
- Antoine de Sait Exupery

When Dorte and I packed for our round the world trip, we both fell victim to Too Much Stuff Syndrome (TMSS). So, in France, we shipped some clothes/shoes to Dorte's sister in Denmark. Me, the big and heavy items I shipped were runners and a pair of jeans. My hiking shoes would have to be enough and who needs jeans when it is 30+ everyday, and they take ages to try. Six months later, I ended up buying a pair of jeans and sandals in New Zealand. Sure beats carrying something on your shoulders for six months that you don't use! Besides, my hiking pants could double for jeans.





I still had TMSS; my knapsack would barely close, which was an improvement from sitting on it! So, for awhile, at each hotel along the way, I would examine my luggage and try to leave one thing behind at each location. This strategy worked quite well because it made me think of what was really important. Often, these were things that I thought someone could use, and I was happy to leave it for them.



Finally, in Turkey, about a month and a half later, I sent more stuff back to Denmark with Dorte's daughter Stephanie, who happened to be living in Denmark at that time. A pair of dress pants and a dress belt, a Kobo reader, and one of 3 pairs of hiking socks further lightened my load. All of this I did despite the well-intentioned warnings of good friends and world travellers Sharen and Keith (Yes, you may take a bow now!). They only travel with carry on packs! How does this work?They buy what they need along the way (e.g.. warm clothing in Nepal), and give it away with satisfaction when they are done with it. Also, think of the benefits of no waiting for luggage and no lost luggage!

First flight, and the only time we lost luggage!

Why do we travel with so much stuff? Europe, with 400 million people, surely has everything we need. Every other country has brand stores where you don't have to worry about buying cheap knock-offs! I think it is a combination of a little bit of insecurity and the hassles when you are on holidays to look for something you need. It is a lot more difficult to find something and much more time consuming, when you don't have a car and you need to rely on public transportation. Also the prices for clothes and hard goods are often 2-3 more expensive in Europe as opposed to North America. 

We both felt the Sharen and Keith's option was too extreme for us as we are avid hikers. We both use expensive hiking poles which would not be allowed on planes, and have Goretex rain wear which would be prohibitively expensive to buy. As we like to climb mountains, we felt we need that extra change of clothes, it can be much chillier at higher elevations. We need specialized quick dry clothes and thermal underwear for the nights in the Himalayas with no heat. Even though we only to used them for 5 weeks in Nepal and 1 week in northern Vietnam, we both felt it was worth it to carry them for the whole trip. Turns out we were smarter than we thought, because we changed our plans and went to New Zealand. 

Tongariro Crossing
We felt that some things we carried were essential, i.e. malaria medication, high altitude and diarrhea pills, antibiotic swaps and a complete hiking safety kit were things we didn't scrimp on. We had a bad experience once north of Whistler when snow shoeing in the winter with -30C conditions, and we decided from then on we would be self sufficient. I did regret buying two bottles of DEET in Vancouver. I am sure I could have got them in Kathmandu. If I had my time back I would have taken far less clothes, washing more often in hotel sinks and laundromats when/where possible as mentioned in the previous blog post.

Final Pieces of Advice
  • Bring less stuff and twice as much money
  • Once you have done your final packing , empty it all on the bed, and discard at least half of it
  • Plan to purchase what you need locally
Most of the luxuries and many of the so-called comforts of life are not only indispensable, but positive hindrances to the elevation of mankind
- Henry David Thoreau


March 24, 2014

Money Saving Tips For Travellers



Our tips are geared more towards those planning a long trip. 




Accommodation

 In Europe, stay in one star hotels. Do a little Google map search to ensure it is in a nice and quiet area close to the railway station. Rooms are spartan but clean, and breakfast is sometimes included.
We had rules when it came to accommodation. Generally, we tried to get our own room with a toilet and a shower. This ranged in price from $3 a night in Nepal to over $100 a night in New Zealand. To our surprise in many countries, but particularly Vietnam and New Zealand, backpacker accommodation were more than adequate and fairly cheap. If there is no WiFi in the room, the problem is usually solved by sitting in the lobby area. Note: A lot of places that advertise free WiFi don't deliver on the promise. Several times we encountered, "Oh, it is not working today", little too much for coincidence.




Hydration



In Europe, it is safe to drink tap and fountain water. Always carry an empty water bottle and fill it up when you can. You will be surprised how much you will save! Note: You drink a lot of water when the temperature is in the low 40's Celsius!




Oops, that was a wine fountain!


Meals
Eat on the cheap some of the time. We bought a cooked half chicken and a salad pack in Florence for about 5 Euro, and had a picnic by the river.  We bought a take out pizza in Naples, ate it in on a square while sharing a bottle of wine. Note: We carry our own cutlery in our day packs!


Hmm, wonder what that Italian man is thinking!


Be sure to make up for your cheapskate ways by occasionally splashing out on a fancy meal. Disobey our other rule 'have dinner at the restaurant-drink your wine later at home' on these nights! You don't always have to be a miser, but you should always try to budget your money efficiently.



Cheers
Train Tickets

Take the regional trains in Europe if you have the time. They are much cheaper than the high speed trains and take much longer. Often they don't have air-conditioning, but all the windows will be open and you get to meet the local people. In Italy, there often is a 50% discount in the summer for travel between 11 am and 2 pm. When buying the tickets (at the station or online), it is cheaper to break the trip into intervals and purchase your journey as two separate trips. If you buy your ticket online, you can print it at the ticket machine at the train station just punching in your ticket number. Always remember to stamp/verify your ticket at the machine on the platform before boarding the train or you ticket is not valid and you will be fined.



Ticket Validation Machine
Sharing Transportation
In a country like Jordan where taxi was often the only mode of transportation, we saved money by asking at reception if anyone else was going our way and then we shares costs. 

Airline tickets
The same happens often with airline travel, especially if you are transferring flights at a major hub, such as London, Frankfurt and Sydney. Major travel sites often only show you the best aggregate flights from one vendor. Two separate tickets from two different airlines often cost far less than the best price on an effective combined route. We also found it was almost always cheaper to fly on a Tuesday or a Wednesday. Also be aware that there are often alternate airports close by. So for London for example, also check Stansted, Gatwick, and Luton instead of only checking Heathrow. The landing fees at the other airports are much smaller, meaning big savings for you, especially if you have the time to take the longer bus or train ride.






We also looked into purchasing a round the world ticket. We found it to be expensive (about CA$7,000), and with too many restrictions to make it worth our while. For example, we could only head in one direction, e.g. west to east. So, if you were heading west to east around the world, you could't fly to Rome from Istanbul, as that would be going east to west. 


As mentioned in an earlier blog, we had the flexibility to change our plans. There are so many low cost airlines that it was generally pretty easy to get from A to B. We also used rewards points for several of the flights, and we believe our airline costs were probably 40% less than the round the world option, about CA$3,000 each savings. So our advice is, unless there is a compelling reason to buy the next flight on your route, don't do it. Take the time to find the low cost airlines that fly where or close to where you want to go. For example we flew from Geneva to Toulouse for CA$64 each, and made our way to the south of France from there, saving CA$300 each instead of flying Geneva to Beziers. Don't be lazy and only rely on sites like Expedia; we mainly used Skyscanner and visited each airport's website to find the names of all the low cost carriers that fly on them. Log in directly to these sites and get the deals! Be sure to factor in the luggage cost and don't get sucked in to paying to reserve a seat. Most of the time you will be able to sit together anyways. 

We never booked flights far in advance as we often got tips from other travelers and locals of places that 'you must go' which we had never heard about. We would have never seen the spectacular caves at Phong Na in Vietnam otherwise.



Paradise Cave





City Tours 
In major cities plan your day if you can and do a circle walking tour. A leisurely 10-15 km  walk over 6 hours makes for an enjoyable day, and the savings in bus fares justifies that low calorie gelato/beer combination at the end of the day! 


Laundry
Get in the habit of washing your clothes in the sink. Buy a sink plug set (different sizes) before you go, as hotels as a rule don't provide them (they don't want you to do your laundry in the room!). Your clothes are mostly sweaty as opposed to dirty, and sink washing early in the evening means dry in the morning if you travel with quick drying clothes. This won't work for cotton and jeans, though. Who wants to spend their time travelling looking for a laundromat, spending hours watch the clothes wash and dry, or worse still, paying the ridiculous prices the hotels charge per piece of laundry. We also both purchased a quick drying towel. Great to take to the beach and usually fully dry within an hour of washing. Caution: Be aware in some countries your laundry just won't dry in your room, due to the humidity (e.g. parts of Vietnam).




LUGGAGE
The world now is truly global. Anything you can buy in Canada you can get elsewhere, often for a much lower price. Watch out for the counterfeits, so find a reputable merchant. It worked well for us traveling with a knapsack as opposed to a suitcase. It just easier to get around, and on and off public transportation. Must old hotels in Europe, and many in Asia don't have elevators, and it is not fun dragging your luggage up 5 flights of stairs. 












On The Road Technology

We traveled with an iPad Mini. It has a much larger screen than a cell phone and is much easier to use in the long run for writing the blog and checking emails. We used Skype to make phone calls, and didn't really miss having a phone. All the thousand of pictures we took were uploaded along the way to a cloud, so they were safe in case we lost the iPad, the camera or the SD cards.



WiFi
A lot of coffee shops, bars and restaurants offer free WiFi, and when going for coffee, a drink or a meal we would always choose places with free WiFi. Some places you would only get 30 minutes for free (mainly NZ), but it covered our need. We also used the  WiFi at public libraries, which in most cases was free. Tip: You can use their WiFi even after the library is closed, as it signal is so strong it reaches up to a block away. 





Currency
When exchanging cash, it is best to avoid airport kiosks due to the unfavorable rates. We used our debit cards to withdraw cash. Traveler's cheques have largely gone the way of the dodo bird, and are excepted in very few places. Always pay for any credit card purchases in local dollars, never in Canadian or American funds, as your bank will give you a better rate. We have heard that the Capital One Mastercard has the best deal for foreign purchases. They do not charge the 2%-3% currency conversion fee.

Nepalese Rupees
Reading Materials






Almost every place we stayed had a free book exchange. It was great because we hardly bought a book the whole trip, yet we were constantly reading! We also used E-readers, but would be very cautions where we used them in order not to expose ourselves to uncomfortable experience or ruin the devices. Imagine Dorte's surprise to find a book written in Danish by one of her favorite authors, while we were in Nepal.




Splashing Out
As with any trip, our focus wasn't always on saving money, but the less we spend the longer we could travel. When we were at the Amalfi Coast in Italy in the high season, we just had to bite the bullet and pay, if we were going to enjoy ourselves and have an ocean view. It turned out to be a really smart decision. To our delight, there was a fresh fish market just down the road. Enjoy yourselves, but always spend the time to hunt out a bargain.

Happy Travels











March 3, 2014

Bay Of Plenty - It Is All Downhill From Here

The ferry ride from Picton on the South Island to Wellington on the North Island took 3.5 hours. It was smooth sailing. After a quick Starbucks stop in Wellington we took turns driving. We reached Tauranga in Bay of Plenty 522km and 7 hours later. We wanted to get another ocean swim in. Some local people suggested we go to Tauranga, if we wanted warm water. That was really important to us because we only had two nights to spare before returning the Spaceship in Auckland.

Bay of Plenty is one of NZ's most popular holiday spots due to the long picturesque white-sand beaches, it's low-key seaside, and plenty of activities to chose from. 


Tauranga
We spent the first night in Tauranga, which has one of NZ's fastest growing populations. We had dinner on The Strand, which is buzzing with bars and restaurants- especially on a Friday evening on the officially last day of summer!

Mt. Maunganui 
Mt. Maunganui is a resort-like town with white-sand beaches and the iconic cone-shaped extinct volcano Mauao overlooking the town. 


We did our last hike in NZ to the top of this 232m hill, often called 'the Mont', and had some spectacular views of the peninsula.



Then a last warm swim in the Pacific Ocean in NZ, and a Danish ice cream.....


We spent the last two days of our round the world trip in Auckland preparing physically and mentally to go home. Neither was an easy task!



 

March 2, 2014

We Still Get Butterflies - The Queen Charlotte Track

We have had so many great and exciting experiences on this trip, so you might think it would be difficult to get us excited. But we were very excited about doing two days of the 71km Queen Charlotte Track in Marlborough Sound. A very nice and service minded lady at the iSite in Blenheim talked us through the hike and our options as we didn't have time to do the full hike. She booked everything for us, and it worked like clockwork. 

We drove the 25km to Picton, and took a Cougar Line water taxi to the trail head at Ships Cove.


It was a cold and overcast, but skipper promised that it would burn off after noon. Ships Cove is the place Captain Cook first landed in 1770.


He came back several times and mapped the area.


The vegetation at sea level is dense and jungle-like.


As we climbed beech, birch and other native trees were predominant, 


and we had some great views along the way on the first 14.5km of the track.



Andy was not the only one enjoying the view.


The weather cleared as promised, and we had time for a nap at Furneaux Lodge while waiting for the boat to pick us up.


The 10 minute ride across the sound to Punga Cove Resort was beautiful. The boat ride and luggage transfer were included in our ticket and saved us 11.5km of walking!


We relaxed and had a wonderful dinner in the restaurant overlooking the sound.


We woke up to wonderful sunshine, and prepared ourselves for the 24,5km walk to Portage Bay. We had stunning views along the track, which consisted of a lot of up and downhill. 




At lunch time we had company of yet another weka bird.


Admitted, we were tired when we reached the Portage Bay Resort after about 7 hours of walking, and it was a relief to take off the boots.


The Resort was set in a beautiful location.


After replenishing the dehydration, 


we went for a very refreshing swim in the ocean, and had yet another wonderful dinner while watching the sun set over Marlborough Sound.


We got up early to enjoy the morning in this beautiful spot until the boat picked us up, and took us back to Picton.


It was a wonderful hike, and we would have loved to have done it all. It was great service to have our luggage taken to the hotels, so we just had to carry daypacks. We stayed in the cheaper 'walker's rooms', but there are all types of accommodation. We are so glad we did it.