Paihia, Bay of Islands, NZ

We drove an hour northwest and arrived in Paihia, Bay of Islands, which is a cosy, easy-going village in a beautiful setting.

We stayed at Seabeds Backpackers and enjoyed a great view, and a fully equipped kitchen.

A Little History

Waitangi, just outside Paihia is the birthplace of New Zealand, being where the Maori and Europeans joined in signing the Tratey of Waitangi in 1840. This region has one of the country's highest percentages of Maori people, as it has a long and proud Maori history.

The Kiwi

Kiwi are flightless birds, endemic to New Zealand, and a threatenend species. They lay the largest egg,in relation to their body size, of any species of bird in the world. At present, the greatest threat to their survival, is predation by invasive mammalian predators. We read in the newspaper about one lost dog, that killed by instinct over 500 kiwi birds, before being found. 

The kiwi is a national symbol of New Zealand, and the association is so strong that the term 'Kiwi' is used to describe New Zealanders. It is the Kiwi with the largest beak!

Motuarohia/Roberton Island

We took a boat ride 30 minutes to the island, and it was a fun ride. This is Paihia.

A Little History

Captain Cook visited Motuarohia anchoring off Cook’s Cove in 1769. In 1839, Motuarohia became known as Roberton Island. A sad story of death and retribution, surrounding Roberton’s family, ensued, and led to the first prosecution of an individual under New Zealand colonial law. It is an important part of the history of the island and the nation.

We hiked up to the view point, and you can see how small the island is.

It had three lagoons for snorkelling, and one of them had a underwater trail, with signed interpretations of fish and plants that you could read from the surface.

This oystercatcher was really noisy and aggressive, so we expect it had a nest nearby.

Back in Paihia we shared a Mussel/Fritter Stack, a local spaciality and a sophisticated version of the mussels and fries you get elsewhere in the world. Very tasty.

It is strange that you have to go north to get warmer weather, and that January is the best month of summer, but that is how it is here in the southern hemisphere. We had a wonderful time in the Bay of Islands.

Whangarei, Bay of Islands, NZ

A Little History

New Zealand was discovered and settled about 700 years ago, by Polynesians, who developed a distinct Maori culture centered on kinship links and land. The first European explorer to sight New Zealand was Abel Janszoon Tasman on December 13,1642.

Bay of Islands

We took three days off our housesitting job, and drove the 160km northeast of Auckland to Whangarei ('wh'Maori is promounced 'f'). It is just as challenging pronouncing places and names here as in Vietnam.  Whangarei has 52,000 inhabitants, and is the only city in the Northland. There is, by the way, also a Bay of Islands, just outside Corner Brook in Newfoundland, Canada, where Andy was born. Interestingly, the explorer, Captain James Cook visited both places.

We climbed the 460m Mount Manaia. It felt like a mini Vancouver Grouse Grind!

We went for a swim at Ocean Beach, and walked around town.

 This is the most flexible bench we have ever seen! Yep, you just pull the wood and sit on the other side. Pretty smart these Kiwis!

We spent the first night at Little Earth Lodge, and enjoyed sharing experiences and travel tips with fellow travellers. in this case another Canadian. When I went inside, she took my wine glass 'by mistake', hence passing the Canadian test!!

Abbey Caves

Just next to the Little Earth Lodge were the Abbey Caves comprising of three significant caves, Organ, Middle and Ivy. Nathaniel and Amelia Clotworthy settled on 409 acres here in about 1860. Their house in the limestone outcrops resembled an Irish ‘abbey’ leading to the name. 

Our main reason for going into yet another cave was to see glow-worms, which had not seen in any of the other caves. And we were not disappointed. When we turned off our headlamps the ceiling was full of 'stars' - really beautiful. Unfortunately, our camera could not capture the glowworms in the dark, but here they are anyway. If you look in the right hand corner of the photo, and use your imagination, you can see a glimpses of light, which is glow-worms.

The glow worm is a medium to large sized invertebrate that is famous for having a green and yellow coloured light on the end of it's tail. Glow worms are found inhabiting dense woodland and caves around the world with the exception of the Americas. They have small tentacles, which they use to catch insects. 

Andy did the last longest cave by himself, and spent the last 100 metres waist deep in water. Really cool eery experience being by yourself. Only afterwards did the lodge owner tell Andy about the big eels in that last stretch!

Enough time spend under ground, time to drive to Paihia.

Tramping in Auckland Regional Parks

Thought you might be interested in knowing more about other hikes we have done around Auckland....

Hunua Ranges Regional Park

This park is located about an hours drive southeast of Auckland, and covers more than 14,000 hectares of native forest. The Maori used the hills and forests primarily as a source of food and timber. We did the 8km Cossey/Massey Loop and also the 6.5km Wairoa Loop Track.

We hiked through a beautiful fern forrest,

and saw some huge kauri trees, which can grow to more than 50m tall.

Huana Falls is a 30m waterfall, and you can swim in the pool, if you like.

Duder Regional Park

This beautiful park is located 30 minutes drive from 'our' house. In the 14th century, this was the first place in this harbour to be visited by the Tainui canoe; one of the great ocean-going canoes in which Polynesians migrated to New Zealand, around 800 years ago.

and the 8km Farm Loop/Whakakaiwhara Pa Walk has some stunning views.

Andy saw 'dinner', I saw a cute lamb!!

Waharau Regional Park

A 80km drive southeast of 'home' at the shore of the Firth of Thames and into the eastern foothills of the Huana Ranges. Waharau was one of the larger Maori settlements along the coast in the late 1800s, and was a summer residence of the Maori King from the 1890s. We tramped the 14km Waharau Ridge Track Loop, mostly in the trees. The first hour was just uphill, but the view was great at the top, so, as almost always, worth the climb.

Mount William

The views from this 460m 'mountain' is spectacular, and gave us a good excuse to get our breath back.

It is such a treat to be able to go for a swim in the ocean after having hiked, and often we also treat ourselves to an ice cream made with fresh strawberries.

We are building up our levels of fitness, as we want to do some longer hikes when we go down south, at the end of January. We think we soon can be issued a 'Warrent of Fitness', (abbreviation WOF) which we see advertised at every gas station and car dealer. It actually is a regular check that a vehicle is required to undergo, to meet minimum safety standards. 

Housesitting Heaven

We really lucked out on the six week housesitting 'job' we now have in New Zealand. We are staying in a wonderful three bedroom bungalow in a surburban area with a beautiful garden.

Our only responsibilities are to look after the garden, mow the lawn, check the mail, and feed some doves, which roam free. 

Most housesitting jobs come with the responsibility of looking after pets, and are thus much more restrictive. We are enjoying staying in the same place, and cooking the food we like to eat, after months' of restaurant food. Say hello to salads, and goodbye to greasy food!

But don't think we have succumbed to couch potatoes! We have rented a car, and enjoy being mobile on our own terms. We have tramped (Kiwi word for hiked) in some beautiful regional parks close to home. Time to get fit again!

Waitakere Ranges Regional Park

This park is located about 40km northwest of Auckland, and features wild surf beaches with black sand, exposed rocky coastline, scenic costal forests, and stunning views - this is Piha.

We tramped the 16km Mercer Bay Loop Walk/Comans- Ahu Ahu track Circut as well as the Pohutukawa Glade Walk, and had a great day.

The vegetation is very different from at home, and reminds us a little of Hawaii.

Tapapakanga Regional Park

Located 70km south east of Auckland, this park offers rolling farmland and expansive costal views. We tramped the 7.4km Coastal Walk followed by a refreshing swim in the ocean - the water is 21C.

Musick Point

We walked along Bucklands Beach to the end of Musick Point, which is named after a famous aviator who visited NZ. We had a wonderful view of the Rangitoto volcano.

as well as through a hole in the rock.

It is so beautiful here!